Conservation Blog

Tracking the extremely elusive and endangered Cross River gorilla is an activity best done in silence.

Daniel Taylor and his wife, Ginette, barely spoke as they took careful steps over treacherous ground in the jungle of southwestern Cameroon's Lebialem Highlands.

Led by a former poacher and accompanied by three or four other people, the Coquitlam couple was hoping to get an up-close look at the Cross River gorilla.

Single file, they quietly negotiated the dense, humid forest, their footsteps masked by mossy ground.

"It almost comes down to the point where you can't even sweat -- they can smell you a mile away," Daniel says.

Suddenly, at the base of a tree, a gathering of branches, grass and shrubs catches their attention: the nest of a male gorilla. Dung left nearby signalled his recent exit. Looking up, they see large nests high in the jungle canopy. These are where the females sleep with their offspring.

However, all of the nests they saw were empty.

As Daniel puts it, the gorillas are "forever on the move, two steps ahead of us, due to the encroachment of farmlands and logging."

Private farming and logging on government land are endangering the gorillas' habitat, which is how, via a circuitous route, Daniel and Ginette ended up in Cameroon last November.

He's always had an interest in wildlife, but three or four years ago Daniel wanted to paint a gorilla. He got in touch with the African Conservation Foundation (ACF) and during that contact a partnership was created. The goal was to help save the gorilla Daniel was painting: the mountain gorilla, of which there are only 700 left in the wild.

Then, the plight of another, more endangered gorilla was brought to his attention. There are fewer than 300 Cross River gorillas living in the wild, making it the most endangered of all the gorillas.

Daniel was asked to do a painting, but decided that he should see the animal first.

"It lends us more credibility," says Ginette.

The month-long trip was partly sponsored and organized through a partnership of Artists for Conservation and the ACF. The Taylors were joined by a team of field workers, conservationists and biologists.

When they weren't traipsing through the jungle, Daniel and Ginette visited three primary schools to teach art workshops for schoolchildren. Most of the children have never seen a gorilla.

"It was an amazing experience," Daniel said.

They also learned about the efforts of the ACF in the Lebialem Highlands by a man named Louis Nkembi for the past six years.

Eleven village leaders, or fons, have signed an agreement that asks them to complete a number of actions to help save the gorillas.

Field workers are gridding the area to find where the gorillas are nesting -- recent studies show most of them live in 11 separate locations, each at least 10 kilometres apart -- and help come up with a management plan for their survival.

In a country where it's illegal to hunt gorillas, poachers kill the animals to feed their families and make money. Instead of poaching, the ACF is paying many of these men to become conservationists who lead groups into gorilla habitats. A plan is in the works to have them breed cane rats and porcupines for food.

There is also a plan to buy back farms so the rainforest can be replanted, install a central water system in each village and cultivate plants for medicine, nutrition and fuel.

The socioeconomic aspect will be addressed through a concept much like micro banking, where money is lent interest free to people in the villages and paid back after a business is up and running.

"It's a circle of life. If you're going to help the gorillas ... everybody has to be looked after, not just one or the other," says Ginette. "It's an impressive project that's never been done before."

"It has nothing to do with being noble," says Daniel. "It's about doing something with your heart that means so much to so many people.

Jennifer Saltman, The NOW
Photo by Paul vanPeenen/NOW

A documentary on the Cross River gorilla art workshop produced by Cameroon Radio & Television (CRTV) has been broadcasted five times on the Cameroon state television channel. We received phone calls from all over the country congratulating us on the project. The same news has been featured by Cameroon newspapers such as The Post. We have placed a short compilation of the documentary on YouTube.

The Western Cameroon Great Apes Research and Conservation started in 2004. Its main goal is to protect and conserve the Cross River gorilla and Nigeria-Cameroon chimpanzees across the Lebialem Highlands forest and surrounding areas in western Cameroon through research and development of participatory biodiversity management strategies. The program works to promote long-term in-country capacity to foster community participation in conservation management, while providing immediate conservation action to protect key great apes habitat.

The Cross-Sanaga-Bioko Coastal Forests ecoregion supports one of the highest rates of animal species richness in Africa, especially in terms of forest-restricted mammals, birds and butterflies. The Lebialem Highlands are especially rich in endemic species biodiversity. Over 355 bird species have been recorded, among which 50 species are endemic to the afro-montane highlands and 15 species are globally threatened.

The low to mid-level elevation harbors endangered primates as the Drills (Mandrillus leucophaeus) and the Preuss guenon (Cercopithecus preussi), as well as the critically endangered Cross River gorilla (Gorilla gorilla diehli) - the rarest of the gorilla sub-species - and chimpanzees (Pan troglodytes vellerosus) - also the most endangered chimpanzee subspecies in Africa, with a population numbering less than 6500.

The day starts quickly as we rush about readying ourselves for one of the most important events of this expedition! It is only a 10 minute walk to the Wildlife Centre, but we need a truck for all our equipment and art materials. When we arrive, there is already a small group of our workshop artists there. They are excited about their day in the spotlight, and passionate about saving the Cross River Gorillas and their habitat.

All the artists are gathered to the front of a gateway which looks into a primate’s compound. This is a firsthand opportunity to see the primates who have just been released into their grounds. For many of the artists, this is their first time ever to see a gorilla or chimpanzee!

Everyone has been forewarned that the primates may come charging toward the fence and to please stay a reasonable distance from this electrically charged fence.  And, if anyone so much as has a cold or transmittable sickness, not go near the animals as they are very susceptible to human illnesses.

The mediums used by some artists consisted of white glue mixed with basic colours, and strings, dirt, sand, sticks, ripped up cardboard, or any natural resource to create an individual, special piece of workmanship. It was very interesting to see these gorgeous displays of work.  Everyone stuck to the theme in creating pictures of the “Cross River Gorilla".  This was truly giving a boost to an incredible cause of the preservation of a fast diminishing species.

Suddenly, a deafening thunderstorm stuck with all its fury, ushering in high winds and rain. Some provincial and divisional delegates of the Ministry Of Environment And Protection Of Nature and Planning, Programming and Regional Development arrive. As if opening up to a new beginning, the News Media arrives just as the storm subsides.
The camera lights are a welcome display, as are the cameras gently poking over the artists’ shoulders.  The artists are happy knowing that their work is presented to a large audience. This is a chance to raise awareness of the need to preserve the gorillas and their habitat, as well as unique opportunity to display their beautifully composed pieces to the viewers throughout Cameroon.

It was time now for the personal interview. We explained to the press and rolling movie cameras our reasons for the Art workshop. Ginette and I are ushered over to a table where, with lights and cameras about us, we are asked a multitude of questions.  When asked:"Can’t we simply put all the remaining gorillas in a fenced in area, populate them, and then release them?", we answered "What if we would do the same with the people in this room, and then destroy their houses. Where would you go afterwards?”.

It is not only the Cross River Gorilla that we need to protect. It is also its habitat. Because where would we release the gorillas when their habitat is gone?

At the end of the day the artists packed up all their belongings. But they left their art at the Centre for the exhibition, so that other other park patrons can enjoy their artwork. It was a long day of excitement, and after taking pictures with everyone, we shake hands and part our ways. We all have a sense of great accomplishment!

 

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The AFC Flag Expeditions Program is a unique program established and operated by the Artists For Conservation Foundation™ (AFC), making possible the artistic field study and rendering of species or habitats deserving of greater public attention. There is a strong emphasis on the study of unique, threatened habitats, and rare or endangered species in remote parts of the world."

We are up by 7:00am, packing to leave for Limbe. Unfortunately, one of the team members is sick. There is no medical help for her here in this remote forest, so she has to be transferred out for medical attention.
 
Limbe is by the sea and in a beautiful area. The place where we are staying is in the Limbe Botanical Gardens and within walking distance to both the town and the Limbe Wildlife Center. This center is a primate rescue centre that is taking care for gorillas, chimpanzees, mandrills, drills, baboons and smaller monkeys such as guenons and mangabeys. What a wonderful environment to be in. While here, we are to observe and sketch the only captive Cross River Gorilla in the world, which is at the Limbe Wildlife Center.

 
It is very hot and humid, so the best time to explore is in the morning or late afternoon. Unfortunately, our time is limited and so we are off to visit the Wildlife Center at noon. Thankfully it begins to rain, cooling us on our walk to the Center.
 
We spend the day studying, taking notes, sketching and photographing the gorillas, in particular Nyango, the female Cross River gorilla. We very much enjoyed watching their social behavior, their feeding behavior and amazing climbing skills. Later back to our place at the ocean, we chat with Arend and Louis about past and future efforts in saving this highly endangered species. It sends shivers down my spine to even think that they may soon become extinct!
 
After dinner, as we make our way to our room we feel the evening, ocean air fresh against our warm faces. The view is breathtaking! In our little hut, the cool breeze gently blows through the window. As we listen to the distant roll of the waves, the sound lulls us into a fast sleep. Tomorrow will be another amazing day, while we conduct our long awaited "Art Workshop” and give media interviews.

 

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The AFC Flag Expeditions Program is a unique program established and operated by the Artists For Conservation Foundation™ (AFC), making possible the artistic field study and rendering of species or habitats deserving of greater public attention. There is a strong emphasis on the study of unique, threatened habitats, and rare or endangered species in remote parts of the world."

After a long and difficult drive on steep tracks full of gullies, we arrived in the afternoon in Atonga village. The headmaster of Atonga Primary School called the children back to the school and we introduced the project to the teachers and children. A thunderstorm was approaching and it was extremely hot and humid.

We were invited to conduct the film showing in the Fons’s palace. The Fon of Atonga, although very old and blind, also joined for this special event and people helped him to his traditional seat. The Fon encouraged the children of the village to watch and listen carefully, as they were about to see and learn about the wildlife that was once abundant in the area when he was a child himself, many decades ago.

{gallery}cross_river_gorilla_art_class_njentse{/gallery}A group of about 60 children gathered in the big hall of the palace. Louis introduced the programme of that afternoon, the film showing and painting of the Cross River Gorilla. None of the children had ever seen a gorilla or chimpanzee. Some had seen smaller monkeys and other wildlife. When the film started they were watching the great apes with big eyes and smiles on their faces, sometimes laughing out loud when the young gorillas and chimps were playing in the trees.

After the film we went back to the school for the art workshop. Daniel Taylor and his wife Ginette handed out the paint and other materials. Daniel demonstrated on the blackboard how to draw a gorilla, step by step, so that the pupils could follow his instructions. When the outlines of the gorilla were ready, the children started using the acrylic paints to colour their drawing. Three basic colours were available, which could be combined to get other colours. They had lots of fun and enjoyed to use the brushes and paints.

The sun was going down when the 4 best paintings were selected and the awards handed out to the winners. The first price, a gorilla t-shirt, went to a little boy who had been working very dedicated and his painting was really standing out. A set of pencils, pastels and a stuffed animal were handed out to the other winners of that day: two girls and one boy. The other children received pencils and balloons. They were all excited, singing songs and waving us out.

 

In Njentse, the school children and teachers were waiting for us when we arrived at 10AM. A meeting was held with the chairman of the school board, the headmaster and teachers in which we explained the programme and activities of that day in more detail. We also discussed the overall education and wildlife art activities, which are part of this expedition, and how these activities are embedded in

a long term community development and conservation project in the area.

Since we did not have a generator in this village, we showed the great apes film on a notebook in one of the classrooms. The response of the children, when they saw gorillas, chimpanzees and bonobos, often for the very first time in their lives, was fabulous. Most of the children had only heard the names of these animals, but have never seen one, even on pictures or film. From the expression on their faces and laughter we could tell this was really an eye opener for them and a valuable learning experience.

{gallery}cross_river_gorilla_art_class_atonga{/gallery} The film showing was followed by an art workshop in the same class, with about 40 children between 8 and 9 years old. The headmaster and teachers were present as well and very interested in working with the art materials and methods provided. Daniel Taylor gave a demonstration on the blackboard and helped the children with the brushes and paints.

An art contest was part of the workshop and the four best paintings were selected. The winners were announced outside the school building and the awards handed out. All the other children got pencils and balloons.

The art workshops proved to be a successful activity for community sensitization on great ape conservation, and marked the launch of a long term education programme involving more than 50 primary schools in the project area.

After the film showing the children went back to the school for the workshop. It was decided that we would work with a group of 40 pupils of 8-9 years old. Artist Daniel Taylor explained the theme of the art workshop, the Cross River Gorillas, as well as the use of materials like brushes, water and paint. For these children it was the very first time that they were using paint and brushes.

{gallery}art_workshop_fossimondi{/gallery} Daniel demonstrated on the blackboard how the children can draw a basic gorilla face, step by step, so that the kids could follow his instructions and make a drawing on their own paper. He then invited the children to use the paint in any way they want to colour the gorilla.

Some children were using the primary colours just like that, others were mixing them and in that way got different colours. All the kids were enjoying it, and some were working very devoted. We walked around to each child helping, commenting and complementing their individual work. One of the teachers was eager to give it a try and painted a gorilla as well.

An art contest was part of the workshop, but it was not easy to choose the 4 best paintings. Some of the paintings were really standing out and we selected paintings of 2 boys and 2 girls.

Daniel handed out the different awards. The 4th prize was a set of pencils and sharpener, the 3rd prize a pastel set, the 2nd prize a stuffed giraffe and the first prize was a gorilla t-shirt. They all had their photographs taken with the artist. First prize winner Christopher was very happy with his gorilla t-shirt. We were impressed not only by his painting but also by his devotion. A young conservationist?

 

This morning we arrived around 8:30am at the Fossimondi Primary School, welcomed by groups of excited children. A brief introduction meeting with the headmaster and teachers followed. Since we wanted to show a great apes film to the children prior the the art workshop, all the children of the school were asked to go to the Fon’s palace. A 10 minutes walk but most of the children were running all the way down to the palace as you can see in the video.

The Fon’s palace is actually the only building with a large enough room for all children and, not unimportant, electricity cables…

After installing all film projection equipment it turned out that the local generator was not strong enough and for a moment it didn’t look very promising for the film showing that day. Fortunately another generator was found within the village!



The children were excited to see chimpanzees, gorilla and bonobos. They were laughing out loud when young gorillas were playing or riding on their mother’s back. “They are like us!”, one of the pupils said with a big smile. Although they are living in villages adjacent to the forest, none of the children had ever seen a chimpanzee or gorilla in the wild. We promise to come back with more films in a couple of months.

 

Early in the morning we got up, had a quick breakfast with our powder drinks and we packed the tent. We made some photographs of the magnificent views on the forest valleys below as well as a short video of Louis introducing the highlands and adjacent villages.

 

It was decided that the team would split up, with Daniel and Ginette taking the road going up the mountain and slowly making their way back to the village. The second team, including Louis, Arend and two porters, would decent further into the valleys and conduct more detailed surveys on the slopes where the gorillas have last been seen.

These slopes are very steep and there are no more trails, other than the few trails left by hunters which are barely visible. We are climbing over and below gigantic rock formations, and find the remaining of hunter camp sites. We also discover some nests of forest swallows. The Lebialem Highlands are a biodiversity hotspot with plant species that haven’t yet been described by scientists. It is also well known for the large variety of birds, butterflies and other insects.

 

We find several trails of the gorillas as well as feedings sites with their favourite food species. The Cross River gorillas in this area are under pressure and therefore prefer the most dense vegetation, often secondary forests with a dense understory with many shrubs and herbs.

After a sharp turn around a hill, we suddenly find a gorilla nest site with 6 nests. The nests are quite old as the leaves used are brown and start decomposing. The decay rate of nests is a measure for how old the nests are. We continue the surveys until we reach another agricultural plot in the middle of the forest.

There are still some larger trees but also oil palm and many other cash and food crops such as coffee, cocoa, and vegetables. Our other survey team, trained by WWF Conservation Biologist Eno Nku Manasseh, finds too many of these farms deep in the forest. This is not a good sign and makes clear that we need to act very fast in order to preserve the Cross River gorillas and their habitat in this area.

We don't see the Cross River gorillas, but that would have been too good to be true, wouldn't it? They are here - but there are not many left and they don't want to be found. In fact it is better when we don't find them as the last thing we want is to disturb these critically endangered primates.

 

It’s THE long awaited morning......We make Expedition! Our gear has long been in preparation and our inclination to go is high.
As artist of this first expedition, my highly anticipated wait is now over. My dreams of descending deep into the Lebialem Highlands seeking the “Cross River Gorilla” are now being realized.

We will have to make a steep 5km descent down slippery pathways consisting of boulders and rock like trail formations. The path was rarely level and rarely would we rest until we reached our first base camp.

 

It was hot and humid even though the mountain air is considered quite cool compared to the valleys below. Our back packs, each weighing about 60 - 70lbs, are loaded with food goods, camping materials, water, cameras and so forth. I am also carrying other essential items such as art supplies and my journal. Thankfully, porters are provided to carry our other equipment and materials for this two day trip.

Down, down we descend watching the vegetation quickly change before our eyes. We realize we are now entering the habitat of the gorillas and chimps. This is an area never visited by tourists.

Our guide is a man we call “Play-Boy” due to the fact that the compound we are staying in consists of his many wives and children. When asked how many children he has he replies, ”I'm not sure 20, 30 children… lots". At one time he was a farmer and had to kill the gorillas that would raid his fields. In protection of his plantations and for the “bush meat”  his large family required, he recalls, "I was forced to shoot these amazing animals as well as the chimps but, now no longer as all the gorillas and chimps are forced away to distant areas". These are the very same distant locations we will try to penetrate in hope of finding the ever elusive Cross River Gorillas.

 

 

Along the trail we realize that there is a lack of forest sounds. There are no noises made by monkeys and other mammals and most birds.........They are all gone! They have been killed or frightened away. This reminds us that these forests in Cameroon are known as truly "Silent Forests”. A name we wished never existed.

Only a third of the way into our trip I was struck with a high fever that we would soon discover was dysentery. We believe I may have gotten it from a local meal that I had eaten just a couple of days prior. My legs were feeling weak and at times I shook uncontrollably.  I quickly became dehydrated and often had to run into the forest to take care of other symptoms. Needless to say I fell behind the team but urged them to continue on. Ginette and Arend seem to have understood this and had the team wait periodically so that I could catch up and not lose my way in this dense jungle. I feel quite proud of Ginette as she continues on her way. She does not complain, even with such a difficult task of carrying her amazingly heavy back pack. She is strong in every way!

As the predicted heavy forest rains begin to fall upon the canopy above we start to get wet. As for me, this rain is a blessing as it keeps me cool from my ever present fever.

At long last we make it to camp. It’s a small plot of earth consisting of a hut that “Play-Boy'’ had once used as a station home.  It overlooks the forest valleys far below. What an amazing view! This, we are told, is the second level area in which to survey and search for the gorillas. Now, there is a much steeper descent that we must travel down immediately if we want to reach the valley before the quickly approaching night. Ginette and I consider this but, then request to stop and we sleep over night here.

As a cool thick mist settles in, we commence setting up a cold-camp in our wet clothes. Luckily, we find some damp clothing at the bottom of one of our cases and quickly change. We then make a dinner by applying water to one of our dehydrated food packs and eating some packaged salmon. It all tastes wonderful on our empty stomachs.

As I recount this day, I note that we saw some gorilla nest sites. Gorillas make a nest every evening. Our other team members also found several trails and feedings signs but in a different section.

 

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”The AFC Flag Expeditions Program is a unique program established and operated by the Artists For Conservation Foundation™ (AFC), making possible the artistic field study and rendering of species or habitats deserving of greater public attention. There is a strong emphasis on the study of unique, threatened habitats, and rare or endangered species in remote parts of the world."